Mont Saint Michel:
Tourism and History

Mont Saint-Michel, a Unesco World Heritage site since 1979, is a small, rocky, tidal island in Normandy, about one kilometer off the north coast of France. It is situated at the mouth of the Couesnon River, near the border with Brittany. Mont Saint Michel is noted for its Benedictine Abbey and steepled church, which were built between the 11th and 16th centuries.

Until recent times Mont Saint-Michel was connected to the mainland via a thin natural land bridge, which flooded rapidly with the incoming tides, thus creating the tidal island.

In 1879, the land bridge was fortified into a causeway and now there are plans replace it with a bridge, while at the same time removing the silt to once again create a tidal island.

Mont-St-Michel was used as a stronghold as far back as the 6th century. It became a monastery in the 8th century. Legend states that the archangel Michael instructed Bishop St. Aubert to construct a church. This recommendation was ignored until Michael burned a hole in the bishop’s skull with his finger.

In 933 the Normans annexed the Cotentin Peninsula, creating a new frontier with Brittany. Mont-Saint Michel was in Norman hands, on the border, thereby placing the mount on the new frontier with Brittany, giving it strategic significance.

During the Hundred Years' War, in the 14th and 15th centuries, the English assaulted Mont Saint Michel, but were unable to seize due to the its fortifications.

By the time of the French Revolution Mont Saint Michel had lost almost all of its monks. The abbey was closed and converted into a prison. By the mid 19th century Mont Saint-Michel was recognized as a national treasure, and efforts were made to restore it. Subsequently, the prison was closed, and it was declared an historical monument in 1874. Now it is the third most visited site in France, after the Tour Eiffel and the Château de Versailles.

The Italian architect, William de Volpiano, designed the abbey’s Romanesque church with its crypts and chapels.

Robert de Thorigny, built the main façade of the church in the 12th century, and the gothic refectory and cloister were built in the 13th century.

Charles VI added fortifications to the abbey-mount, building towers, and strengthening the ramparts.

The tides at Mont Saint Michel can rise approximately 14 meters from the low water mark. The incoming tide creates a wall of water, creating dangerous conditions which have led to many drownings. Also, the tidal flats contain perilous quicksand.

Personal Notes

I have visited Mont St. Michel on a few occasions. There's never enough time to appreciate this square kilometer of history. Try to find the time to walk by the flats when the tide is coming in. When I was young and foolish I walked on the flats while the tide was rising. Suddenly I found myself surrounded by fast moving water. I don't recommend it.

If you can, stay in one of the small hotels in the city. The city changes a lot after the day tourists leave. Also, the steep walk to the abbey is worth the effort. Once you get to the top, take the guided tour in order to gain a better appreciation of Mont St. Michel.

While not in Britanny, Mont Saint Michel is right at the border. Britanny is famous for its crepes, which should be very thin, light, and crispy. Fillings range from strawberries and ice cream -my favorite, to dinner crepes with various main dish fillings. So far, I have found the best crepes in Montreal's specialty creperies. If you see them on the menu, and they are crispy and not just soft mushy dough lying on the plate, they are definitely worth a try.